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Toronto Deck Railings

Glass Balcony Railing
Installation Guide

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Post & Rail Setup

Install posts securely, measure carefully, and cut rails to fit with proper angles.

Our posts come precut to 42” or 36” railing,  One of our specialists will review your plan drawing and packing slip with you. When your materials arrive, check to make sure you have everything. If anything is missing or you have questions, contact us right away.

Tools Checklist

10 min

Impact Driver

$140

Power Drill

$198

Concrete Drill

$219

Clamps

$35

Composit Shims

$30

Level

$15

Measuring Tape

$10

Non-ferrous Blade

$33

Square

$14

Mitre Saw

(with non-ferrous blade)
$140

Our posts come precut to 42” or 36” railing,  One of our specialists will review your plan drawing and packing slip with you. When your materials arrive, check to make sure you have everything. If anything is missing or you have questions, contact us right away.

Tools Checklist

10 min

Impact Driver

$140

Power Drill

$198

Concrete Drill

$219

Clamps

$35

Composit Shims

$30

Level

$15

Measuring Tape

$10

Non-ferrous Blade

$33

Square

$14

Mitre Saw

(with non-ferrous blade)
$140

  • Use a clamp to prevent the top bracket from sliding while fastening.

  • For the bottom bracket, use a piece of wood cut at 2 and 1/2 inches to hold the bracket while fastening.
  • Mark the installation location for the brackets on the wall or post.
  • Ensure one post is loose before sliding the rails into the brackets.

  • Fasten the rails to the brackets using 5/8-inch self-tapping screws.

Glass Order Form
  • Measure the distance from post to post:  Submit your measurements to the office for ordering. We stock standard glass panel sizes ranging from 12″ × 35⅜” to 60″ × 35⅜”, available in 1″ increments.
  • Click the Glass Order Form button to download the PDF. After filling it out, simply email the completed form to info@ottawa deckandrail.com.
  • Review Materials: Make sure they match what came on your invoice and site layout.
  • Position the first end post: Place one end post near the edge of your deck so the lag bolts will secure it to adequate blocking/support. Square the post with the deck edge and mark the holes with a pencil.
  • Pre-drill and attach the first post: Pre-drill the holes and fasten the post to the deck. Do not fully tighten the lag bolts yet.
  • Install the second end post: Repeat steps 1-2 for the remaining end post.
  • Measure for rails: Measure the distance between the two posts from the inside edge of each post, NOT from the baseplates. Add 2.5 inches to your measurement
  • Cut and insert rails: Cut both the top and bottom rails to that length. Insert the rails into the slots in the end posts.
  • Level and secure posts: Check if your posts are level. If not, level them using shims. Then fully tighten the lag bolts.
  • Secure the bottom rail: Use two 1.5-inch screws (one per side) on the inside of the bottom rail or outside of the post to prevent the bottom rail from moving.
  • Install corner posts: For jobs that need corner posts, cut the rails at 45 degree angle to fit into the corner post. Make sure the post is loose, line up the rails and fasten using the 1 1/2″ self-tapping screws, then level the posts.
  • Install line posts: Slide the rails through the line post. Make sure one post is loose and put it together to build the frame. Level the line post and fasten the rails onto the post using the 1 1/2″ self-tapping screws.
  • If you can’t use the full rail then use the included splice, join the two rails together using the splice and fasten using 2 screws.
  • Remove plastic lining and cut 2 sections of rubber gasket and place them in the top and bottom rail. Make sure they are cut precisely to ensure that the bottom rail will not slide.
  • Place glass blocks on the inside of the gasket for the bottom rail.
  • Gently insert the glass by pushing the glass up in to the top rail and pushing into the bottom rail.
  • Many clients opt for baseplate covers. To install them, slide the two halves together around the post and snap them into place.
  • Go over the entire railing system and check if you missed any loose screws, notice if there are any scratches.
  • Step back to admire a job well done.

Troubleshooting Guide

Common issues and soltions from our installation experts

  Posts feel wobbly after installation
  • Posts feel wobbly after installation
  • Consider adding bracing between posts for extra stability
  • Drill hole at new angle
  • Use a hammer drill with carbide-tipped masonry bit
  • Clear debris frequently by pulling bit out while drilling
  • Use proper drilling technique: don't force, let tool do the work
  • Double-check that all posts are plumb and level
  • Measure twice, adjust posts before final tightening
  • Use adjustable rail brackets if available
  • Consider professional consultation for complex layouts
  • Start with smaller pilot hole, gradually increase size
  • Keep drill bit cool with water or compressed air
  • Avoid drilling too close to edges (minimum 3 inches)
  • Check for rebar or existing stress points
  • No, leave the blue plastic liner in place - it's designed to stay
  • The liner provides weather protection and is part of the railing system
  • Removing it may void your warranty and compromise durability
  • Only remove protective film from visible surfaces, not structural liners

Stair Aluminum Railing - Quick Code Checklist

Post Layout

  • Max 5ft apart (level + stairs)
  • Set ~ 1″ in from step/landing edge (more if step overhangs)
  • Posts must handle 200 lb sideways load

Picket Spacing

  • Our picket spacers come factory-spaced under 4″ (no adjustments needed)

Railing Height

  • Guard height: min 36″ from step/landing
  • Stair handrail: 34″–38″ from stair nosing (the front edge of the step that sticks out a little)

Anchoring

  • Into concrete, wood with blocking, or tile/stone over concrete
  • The kit comes with standard 3″ Tapcon-style screws. Use the correct fastener for material type (ex: wood, concrete, or tile)
  • Drill full depth, clear dust, tighten until solid